Galapagos - Sulidae (now with Photos)

I only have a few minutes until the dinghy comes to take us to the boat so here is my daily musings unedited.

March 13, 2012. 8:35 pm (we went back one hour). Galapagos, Santa Cruz harbour.




Our first view of Santa Cruz harbour.

Ok, I think that this boat idea could have used some more thought. Where should I start. How about half an hour ago when I barfed all over myself, my bed, the floor and then the bathroom. No, let's go back further than that.

We got up this morning and went to the airport. An uneventful flight until just before we reached the islands. Then the cabin crew opened the overhead compartments and proceeded to spray what I assume was some sort of industrial version of insecticide all over the carry on luggage. Val was in the aisle seat and was disinfected along with the bags. Once we were over the islands I got an amazing view. The water in the bays is an indescribable colour. A million versions of a cross between blue and green, swirled together, blending in and out. Imagine Lake Louise, then take that one amazing colour and multiply it by countless variations. Unbelievable. I can assure you that my camera will not do it justice. (Two good reasons to have short legs and take the window seat - more view and less poison).

When we landed (on Barta Island), we had to wait for our luggage. They pulled it in on a tractor then unloaded it to the floor. Then a very adorable golden retriever (aka hard core drug agent) crawled all over the pile. It was quite suspenseful to see if there might be a "hit". But no, the bags were clean and the gates were opened and we all rushed to grab our stuff. After that it as a bit of a whirlwind. Our Sulidae guy met us out front. No time for the bathroom, the bus is leaving. There were two other passengers from our boat on our flight/bus, Valerie H. and her boyfriend Hakam from the States. They seem very nice. Then off the bus and onto a boat-bus to take us from Barta Island to Santa Cruz Island. The islands are very close together.

My first views of Galapagos have been somewhat underwhelming. We drove along a straight flat road through scrub. There weren't even any birds. Although, I think I saw a giant iguana sunning itself on the runway. And I definitely saw a Great Frigatebird from the plane window while we were still flying (my first in flight ID, it was hard to miss the giant red throat pouch). But then we reached the harbour where we crossed to Santa Cruz. The water! (see poorly described water description above). Unfortunately, our guy (I knew his name but he left so I immediately forgot it) took my carry on bag which had my camera, computer, binos, bird books. I thought he was just carrying it but he put it on the flat top of the boat-bus where I couldn't get it (and spent the whole boat ride wondering if it was going to fall off). So no pictures but I'm sure there will be many more to come.

When we reached the other side, we got passed to another guy (same situation with the name) who drove us in a truck to the harbour where we met up with some other passengers on the dock. I am trying to remember the name of this harbour (I will fill in later). It is actually quite a substantial little city, 20,000 people live here. And the harbour is full of boats. There are dozens of them. Valerie H. pointed out our ship. Oh My God! Compared to the other ‘yachts’, it is tiny. It is wee. It is itsy and it is bitsy. It is 'honey, I shrunk the pirate ship'.



That is the Sulidae, dead centre half hidden behind a small sailboat. 



A Galapagos (or Lava) Heron, my first Galapagos bird.

Val and Danny in the dinghy

Our first proper view of the Sulidae, our pirate ship.


We were then handed off to Omar (who is already gone but he lasts long enough to keep his name). An older German couple were added to our little entourage. We then all piled into an inflatable dingy and went out to see where we are going to live for the next 7 days, 6 nights. Already on board, a German woman named Doris and a Swiss woman named Anya. They are sharing a room but not traveling together. Doris is motorcycling from Alaska to Chili. Anya is the unofficial welcomer. They are also cool. Rounding out our group: a French/Swiss couple Margarite and Jean, and a young Swiss guy named Zander (who has his own room - we are all wildly jealous). Everyone is great - definitely middle of the tourist scale - not hippies, not yuppies. The older German couple (she is Anne, he also has a name) aren't very comfortable speaking English so I don't think they are going to be major players in this tale. They have lots of German speakers on board but they are keeping to themselves mostly.




First order of business, camp out on deck. From left: Doris, Hakam, Valerie H, and Anya.

 

Here is the deck without people sprawled all over it. Behind the white mats, there are some blue lifejackets. Just before the life jackets, you can see a silver metal strip. This is the edge of our 'hatch' in the ceiling of our room, the only source of ventilation. Which we had to close if we wanted to change or shower since it was right where everyone sat.

By chance, we were on the first dingy to the boat, the Americans, the Germans and us. We got room 3, which opens onto the dining room. We are right in the middle of the boat, below deck. The cabin is so small I burst out laughing when they opened the door. It is about 4 feet across and 10 feet long. Along the left side runs the bunk beds with a tiny tiny tiny bathroom at the end. There is nowhere to put my bag. Val, who is tidier and can reach higher, has put hers on the life vest shelf. Mine is at the end of my lower bunk.




Our TINY cabin (room 3). Where Val's right elbow is is the height of the bathroom ceiling.

Once the next dingy arrived with the last passengers, we ate lunch. Unmemorable. The two roll over guests (Doris and Anya had already been on for four days) had said the food is awesome but after lunch and then dinner, they said something had changed and it was now mediocre. Since I didn't keep mine, I don't really care so much. I will jump ahead a bit to dinner where we all started to talk about our rooms. It turns out we are in Shangra-La. The only one who doesn't hate his room more than us is Zander. He is offering to sell it to the highest bidder. When the room conversation started, I couldn't believe anyone had a smaller room. But the French couple have even less space, their bathoom is beside the beds so they only have about 2 feet of 'corridor'. Ours is at the end of our beds so we have at least 6 feet of walking space (I use that term very loosely). From what I can tell, there are three rooms up top. They are over the engine and all occupants are not happy with the noise and smell. Valerie H just poked her head into our room (because our door is wide open due to the excessive and pervasive and stiffling heat) and said they are going to sleep on deck because they can't take the gas fume. Margorite is really unhappy. So, I am not complaining about the room.

But a last bit about the bathroom. It is maybe 20 inches by 20 inches. There is a toilet (sort of), a sink and a shower head. Val cannot stand up in there. It is about 5 feet to the ceiling. I can stand but without enough head space to get the shower head between my head and the ceiling. I took a shower tonight so that I could sleep with wet hair but it was a challenge.

Ok, enough about the boat. It is pretty cool looking. We are pirates. Arrrgg.

I think I have to stop now. I will tell you about the tortoise farm tomorrow. And the barf.

March 14. 8:26 pm. Sante Fe Island. Galapagos.

I am never going to be able to keep up with the blog at this rate. They keep us totally busy so I may resort to a quick recap without my lengthy narrative. I’m not sure if I can do it.

Back to yesterday. After we got our rooms and ate lunch we all got back on the dinghy and went back to the dock where we loaded onto a bus. We were going to a farm where land tortoises hang out. It is near the highest point of the islands, about 600 meters. Apparently, the Galapagos Islands are 97% national park. This farm is part of the other 3%. But, farm or no, it is where the tortoises go to mate and generally lie around. Omar told us most of the females have already left for lower ground to lay their eggs but the boys sometimes never leave. So there were still a few around. And apparently, at least one female because I got a very awkward mating shot. I took photos of course, but I discovered that one giant land tortoise looks exactly like the next giant land tortoise so don’t expect miracles. A couple of new birds. Plus, this little bit of hill is high enough to grow coffee. Who knew?



Omar



 



Here is the awkward mating shot, notice that the one of these two is facing the wrong direction. 
(It is blurry, not because of my lack of photography skills but in order to be discreet for the young lovers).

 

I forgot to mention the lava caves (lava tubes) on the farm. These develop naturally from volcano eruptions.  This is us underground, with just my weak headlamp to guide us.

Back to the boat. I wasn’t feeling too good during dinner. But then I went to bed and tried to take a Gravol. That Gravol was in my stomach approximately 2 seconds before it decided it had arrived too late and left. So, I had to clean up my own puke. Then I went to bed for a horrible sleep.

Today we got up and had breakfast. Also not good, nausea wise. But I kept the bit I ate down. Add to sea sickness, I am also dehydrated and sunburned. Pick a reason. After breakfast we had our first excursion of the day. We also have a new guide, Alberto. He knows his birds so I like him. A hike on Isla Plaza. This is a tiny island off of Santa Cruz. There are yellow iguanas there. And some new birds. I won’t bother to describe, the pictures will be better. But one thing noteworthy. The dock was covered in baby sea lions. It was hard to get around them because they were in the way and they were so cute. Long story short, I bailed on the rocks and broke my camera. It still works but the view screen doesn’t so I have to use the eye thingy. It is like 1982 all over again.



We all had to go on the rocks so as to not disturb the babies.



Hello



We like the sunshine



A yellow land iguana

Another yellow land iguana, again, they all look pretty much the same.

A lava lizard.  Each island has it's own species but they all look the same too.

The island vegetation with the Sulidae at anchor.



Baby sea lions all look alike too but I thought they were adorable so prepare yourselves, there will be many more like this one, but even cuter, if you can believe it. 

Back to the boat. We had to sail for over two hours to get to the next island, Isla Santa Fe. This island also has yellow iguanas, but they are paler. Like the tortoises, one iguana is really starting to look like the next. But before we went for our hike on the island, we took an hour to snorkel. Now, I have not snorkeled since my first trip to Mexico in 1992. And it was not a pleasant experience so I wasn’t so sure about this time either. Plus, when I asked for small flippers, they all kept looking at my feet and shaking their heads. Hmmm. Seems they don’t have children’s flippers. But Doris, who has small feet but bigger than mine, gave up the smallest pair and several people had to trade up a size but in the end, everyone had flippers. Masks and snorkels applied. Add water. Voila! The most amazing experience. And we didn’t even see that much. The sea turtles were not cooperating by swimming near us. But, since it was my first time, it was awesome. Val also had the best time ever. So easy to please novices. I took some pictures with my underwater camera. Some of them are pretty cool.  But most are just blue.



Val in the water

Me in the water (self portrait)

My underwater camera was an excellent purchase.



Alberto swimming by.

This is awesome says Val.

We swam for 90 minutes or so. Then back to the boat to dry off, rest a bit and then onward to Santa Fe to see differently yellow iguanas. But I am not complaining because I got some excellent birds. The Galapagos dove is very pretty. I have a good picture of him so he gets a mention. Plus a Galapagos hawk which I am happy about but no picture. Oh, and a Galapagos mockingbird. There is a bit of a theme when it comes to bird names here.


Wet dock.  Disembarking from the dinghy onto the beach.  We learned early to ask if it was a wet dock or a dry dock so we had on the appropriate shoes.

Everyone has to have their picture taken with the animals.  Here's mine.

Here's Val's

Here's Zander's.  We all had different ideas of how we wanted our photo to be staged.

Baby sea lion nursing

And now for some birds.

Santa Fe Mockingbird



The same bird, I just like this picture



The Galapagos Dove.  there will be better photos later



our first blue footed boobie.  WAY better photos later.



A Darwin finch.  I don't remember which one, maybe a Small Ground Cactus finch?

 And just a couple more Sea Lions for good measure

I told you that they get cuter - this is what I was talking about.  Adorable.

Back to the boat for dinner. I am feeling much better and actually ate more than a teaspoon full like I did at breakfast and lunch. But we have to travel for 8 hours tonight so that won’t be great. I just took my bedtime Gravol in anticipation. I am totally exhausted and I am going to bed as soon as the water is replenished.

I believe Alberto mentioned that we will be in port in San Cristobal tomorrow evening. I may try to post this if I can find wifi. There won’t be time for picture posting though. Too bad, cause they are pretty awesome.

March 15. 8:06 pm. San Cristobal Island. Galapagos.

Well, there is wifi here but it is so weak at the boat, I will take my computer to the dock tomorrow and post then (hopefully).



Pufferfish would surround the boat whenever we docked. 



me looking at him, him looking at me...

This trip is a study in dicotomies. All internal experiences are crap. I am nauseous but fortunately, not as bad as the first day. But I can barely eat. So I am hungry. I am sunburned. Although not as bad as Val who burned her lower legs and feet so bad she can barely walk. Headachey. Whiney. Hot. Tired. It is very hard to sleep in our swaying sauna.

All external experiences are crazy amazing and make up for all discomforts. This morning we arrived at Isla San Cristobal at Punta Pitt on the north end. We started the day after breakfast (which I couldn’t eat) with a hike up to the top of a volcano peak. The volcano is long dead but makes a very beautiful bay with high cliffs surrounding. Despite my aversion to mountain ‘hikes’ this one was very nice and not too difficult. Still straight up a mountain but at this point, I am just happy there was no mud. So much easier to climb up and down when you know your feet are going to stay where you place them.



Yup, we are going up that.



Anya and Doris on their last day.



The Sulidae waiting in the harbour.



Our group photo.  From left (German guy)Mathieu, Anya (Swiss), Anne (German), Hakam (US), Valerie H (US), Val (Canada), Me (Canada), Zander (Swiss), Jean (Belgium), Margorite (French) & Doris (German).

Red footed Boobie, on the nest. 
The other boobies (blue footed and Nazca) don't make nests, they just lay their eggs on the rocks. 



Another lava lizard, this one posing prettily on a path post (a very alliterate lizard)

Enjoying the beautiful view from the top



The view.  You can see the volcano ring in this picture.  Worth the climb.

Lots of pictures. (20 minute interruption here for a conversation with the Chef. He mucho gustos me. I didn’t understand most of the other 19 minutes). The hike was followed by a quick swim (did I mention that I climbed that volcano wearing a bathing suit under my clothes, and it was already a million degrees at 8am). Now, I am not a swimmer by nature or by nurture. But no one can say no to a dip in an emerald green bay after pouring sweat for 2 hours. Although Val did decline. But I was in there like a dirty shirt, which by the way is how I am doing my laundry now – by swimming in my filthy clothes.

Then we all piled into the dinghy for a zip around Pitt island which is a breeding colony for sea birds. One new one. We didn’t go onto the island, to steep and bird poopy. (I am fading so I will sum this up quickly). Back to the boat (I should call this blog – back to the boat) for lunch.

Pitt Island




Magnificent Frigatebird



Here is some of that amazingly blue water.



You say Guano, I say GuaYES!!

Then a trip to another bay just to look around (a new duck) and another swim. This bay was beautiful. And that is compared to all of the other Galapagos bays. The blue was so pale it faded into the white sand. But it was surprisingly cold. Perfect for a hot day.



You know it is extra beautiful when Danny and Alberto (locals) are taking pictures of it.

 

Back to the boat. Then we moved to an island called Leon Dorado (Sleeping Lion) for a snorkel. There are sea turtles and sharks there so I was pretty keen even though I had already been in the water twice already today. This island is two giant stone towers. They are huge with a small channel between them. This is where we snorkled. Yes, amazing. I swam with sea turtles and there was a school of sharks right below us. I’m pretty sure the turtles showed up on my camera but I don’t think the sharks were high enough. We’ll see. The current in the channal was very strong and I had to stop concentrating on the animals and start paying attention to getting through to the other side. At one point I was pushed into the cliffs but no damage. Fortunately, it wasn’t coral there. When we made it through to the other side of the island, it was so choppy; I kept getting sea water in my snorkel. We had already been out for an hour so I bailed at that point. The older German couple were already out of the water and in the dinghy so I joined them. Apparently, all I missed was a manta ray. That would have been good but not worth staying in the water.




Leon Dorado from the distance.  You can see the Channel.  We swam though that!



I couldn't get the whole thing in frame, it was huge. 



Here I am in the middle, looking up.



A sea turtle.  This camera is not good underwater from any distance.  But you get the idea.



This is when I crashed into the side. 



Whew!  I made it out the other side, now get me out of the water!!

Back to the boat. After three swims, pretty much everything I own is wet. It is tied to the rigging on deck to dry. Dinner which I ate than lunch but it is still iffy in tummy land. Most everyone else has gone into Pto Moreno, the capital of Galapagos (pop. 8000 not as big as Pto Ayora on Santa Cruz). Val is up on deck cooling her feet and I am below writing this.



Drying our swimming clothes (and everything else) on deck. It better be tied down or it will be gone by morning. 

Tomorrow we have a hike at 6 am. I have no idea why, I am guessing a new colour of iguana. Then we drop off Anya and Doris and pick up two new people. Hopefully this will get posted. I am off to my tiny bed full of my stuff. But I am excited because we are in port and not moving anywhere tonight so I am hoping it is calmer and I can finally get some sleep.