Riobamba (now with photos)

March 2, 5:30 Riobamba

Our plan last night was to go to Ambato today but then we reread the Lonely Planet and discovered there wasn't too much going on in Ambato. It is a launching pad for Cotapaxi (a volcano) but it wasn't going to work out timewise because, according to LP, the train from Riobambo to Alausi (then down to Naris del Diablo - (Devil's Nose - sounds safe?) - then back to Alausi) leaves Riobambo on Sunday morning. AND there is a Saturday Market. So we came straight here.

By the way, we were not killed in our scary hostel and it was quiet but sewer smell was wafting up from the shower drain in the morning. And the shower was freezing. We had anticipated something bad so we had already scouted out the neighbourhood and booked a different hostel for our last weekend in Quito - Queen's Hostel on Calle de Riena Victoria. a little more expensive but it is much nicer.

After our walk-about/research into various hostels, we decided on Mexican for dinner. We shared a chicken fajita that rivaled anything served in Victoria (but not Mexico). It was huge and we ate so much guacamole it was embarrassing. Val finished the second serving of the quac with a spoon, it was so good. 

In the morning, ANOTHER bus station in Quito, Quitumbe, which serves South. It was an hour drive from Mariscal. The bus ride was far more entertaining than our previous rides. We took the 'express' so we didn't stop in at any stations en route, however, we did stop at every street corner to pick up random passengers. But the best part was the vendors. They would line up to get onto the bus. Val bought a cook book and a naturopath thing - 'eat cauliflower to keep health'. We also bought cookies to save a boy with our love (and 50 cents) and some pan de banana that was still piping hot. We have decided that people in Canada should sell stuff on city buses. More people might take them.

After 4 hours, we reached Riobamba. We are staying in the Hostel Oasis. It is very nice. There are caged birds, two dogs (a French bulldog and some sort of terrier), a cat and two chickens. Our room (with en suite) is off of a lovely little covered court yard with a fireplace. We are sitting out there right now. We just met our neighbour in room 7, Ron. Ron is an American expat. He just spent 20 minutes explaining the truth behind a number of conspiracy theories, 911, bin Laden, Vietnam, any number of dead dictators, cancer cures, CIA, etc. We agreed with everything of course. Disagreement is no fun when talking to the slightly off of the world.

Hostel Oasis:

 



The outside is kind of scary but wait...



You enter into this lovely outer courtyard with chickens and cats and dogs

This is the covered inner courtyard with padded seats and pillow and a fireplace

And our room.

We discovered upon arrival that the train from Riobamba is out of service. We will have to take the bus to Alausi and then do the Devil's Nose portion of the train ride. It is only a couple of hours but we have been looking forward to it so we have adjusted our plans. Now, we will spend two nights here, bus it on Sunday morning to Alausi, get a room, take the train and then leave for Cuenca from Alausi on Monday morning. Cuenca is supposed to be amazing, a world heritage site.



The defunct train station

Back to now. Once we had our room, we wandered into town. Saw the closed train station. They are doing a lot of road work here. Nothing too interesting though. We had spaghetti carbonara for dinner with mango juice. Not too traditional but it was surprisingly good.

Now we are hunkered down until morning when we will find the market. While we were in Quito, we stopped by the daily market to see what is available there. That way, if it is available in Quito, I will be less likely to buy stuff as we travel because I will know I can get it on our last weekend. But, alternately, if I see something that is unique to a region, I may have to just buy it and carry it.

March 3. 3:42 pm. Riobamba.

We love our room and plan to live here forever. Well, maybe not forever. The morning sounds here were geese through one wall and a tea kettle though the other. We slept in until 8. Once we got ourselves going, we found a restaurant for breakfast. We had already sat down by the time we realized we were in a Medieval themed karaoke bar!! So we ate breakfast surrounded by spiked weapons, yokes, spears and shields attached to black walls. Thankfully, no one took advantage of the karaoke machine.

Then we found the market. Again, it was amazing. Not only do I love to stuff for sale but the ambiance is incredible. So many indigenous folks, wearing their local clothes. I love it. Val bought a wooden molcajete (mortar and pestle). I got sucked in by two tiny, tiny old ladies who barely spoke Spanish and definitely no English. They were selling hand woven, hand dyed, rough wool scarf/blanket. It is so awesome but I have no idea what I will use it for. I just loved the ladies so much I wanted to give them all of my money. My haggling consisted of me counter offering with the same amount they asked for plus a photo. I towered over these ladies, they were so tiny. Then I bought a brass ring (that looks enough like gold to probably get me killed) and a change purse because my current wallet can't handle all of the dollar coins - (I left my new wallet in Quito).

Riobamba and some of the people who live there:

The woven products here are much rougher than in Quito. More sheep wool, less alpaca. And you can just tell the dyes are from naturally, locally harvested plants. But we refrained from buying more. Once we had pawed everything and gawked at everyone, we left the market. We came back to our room to decide what next.

The market:

This is the woman who sold me (and I assume) wove my beautiful red blanket/shawl

Beyond the market and the now defunct train station, Riobamba doesn't have a lot to offer. But I noticed a park (Parque Guayaquil) at the edge of town on the map with a lake so we decided to go there. Plus, it showed that there was a 'cow monument'. How could we miss that? I packed my bird book and binoculars and off we went. When we arrived, we found a city park with a tiny cement 'lake' with paddle boats. Not exactly a bird sanctuary. So, no new birds. But there was a cool play area for kids with tiled animal statues to play on, so we played on them. Unfortunately, the cow monument was nowhere to be found.

Parque Guayaquil:



This is the 'lake'

Then we made our way back through town. We saw a vendor selling mango. We ordered two. The man prepared two cups with shredded mango and then he proceeded to squirt berry syrup, chocolate, (at this point it was too late to stop him so we just went with it), honey, caramel & sweeten condensed milk. It was sweet (no kidding) but the tart green mango countered it and it was delicious. 

Our mango snack:

Then we went for lunch. Val accidentally ordered the menu of the day by asking for the menu. Food just started arriving. Potato lentil pasta soup, beef with rice and a fried egg, and the obligatory juice (unknown fruit but tasted like orange/pineapple) and half a banana. $2.

We took another cruise through the market. No purchases this time but I managed to sneak a few more pictures. I miss India where the people lined up to have their photo taken. Here, they don't seem to like it. Fair enough. But bad anthropologist that I am, I am going with 'what they don't know, won't hurt them'. Let's hope I am not stealing their souls.

More market photos:



The hat section.  Everyone wears hats here.



Even Val, although barely willingly

This ends today's recounting of 'what Joanne & Valerie ate and bought on this day.'

PS.  We had Wi-Fi at our hostel and a free evening so I uploaded some pictures to the 'We're here' and 'Mindo' posts.  It was this or watch Pretty Woman.